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# The City of London: A Pilgrimage Through the Square Mile's Ground of Oaths
- URL: https://www.lawrencetravelstories.com/uk-city-of-london-eng/
- Published: 2026-11-06T04:05:56.000Z
- Updated: 2026-11-06T04:09:43.000Z
- Description: Beneath the glass towers of the Square Mile lie a Roman arena where men swore to be burned and bound, a hospital built on a vow, a Templar rotunda, a church that lost a saint's shrine and a synagogue of exiles. Five true stories, one word: sacramentum.
- Author: Lawrence
- Tags: City of London, London

---

[London 倫敦Search by LOCATIONS 按地點搜尋Search by SPECIAL TOPICS 按專題搜尋 The Complete Authority Guide The River, the Capital, the Empire and the City That Keeps Rebuilding Itself London is one of those cities that becomes harder to understand the more you know about it. The skyline looks modern. The streets often look![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/icon/Gemini_Generated_Image_gpc0phgpc0phgpc0---Edited-b26bdbfe-47ec-4de3-b51d-db78bcf17c6c.png)Historical Travel StoriesLawrence![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/thumbnail/LONDON-e7998cae-23e4-4aba-aefe-ca000402dc4f.jpg)](https://www.lawrencetravelstories.com/london/)

> This is a historical walk through five places in the [City of London](https://www.lawrencetravelstories.com/uk-city-of-london/): the Roman amphitheatre beneath Guildhall, Smithfield, Temple Church, All Hallows by the Tower and Bevis Marks Synagogue. Each keeps a piece of the same story: for nearly two thousand years this has been a place where people swore, deposited, kept and refused oaths. You will leave knowing where to stand, what to look for, and why the word "sacrament" began life as a soldier's promise.

🗺️ Welcome to Historical Travel Stories. Forget superficial sightseeing itineraries; we offer in-depth geo-historical explorations grounded in official records (verified via a four-tier research process) and complemented by short videos. Every day, we reveal a hidden urban gem—a secret spot unknown even to the locals—completely free of charge.   
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## The Weight of a Pledge

Stand in Guildhall Yard and look down. Set into the paving is a curved band of dark stones, easy to step over on the way to lunch. It traces the wall of a Roman arena where, if the old formula is a fair guide, men swore to be burned, bound, beaten and killed by the sword. Around you now stand the offices that move the world's money, and a medieval hall where, each autumn, a new Lord Mayor is sworn in. Nobody planned that rhyme, yet the Square Mile keeps returning to it. This is not Central London with better tailoring; it is a separate, ancient jurisdiction that runs on the given word, and its ground remembers what happens when the word is kept, and when it is refused.

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## 

## First Story: The Arena, the Giants and the Oath

The amphitheatre was first built around AD 70, a decade after Boudica burned the town, in timber, on damp ground in the north-west of Roman Londinium. It was rebuilt in stone shortly after AD 120 and could hold, by various estimates, five to seven thousand people. By the middle of the fourth century it was abandoned and quarried away. Archaeologists found it almost by accident in 1987 and 1988, when they were testing the ground for the foundations of a new art gallery: eight metres down lay a curve of Roman masonry, and the dark arc in the Yard above marks its outer wall. Direct evidence of gladiators fighting in London is thin, but the Romans left us the oath. Every gladiator, according to Petronius and Seneca, swore to endure being burned, bound, beaten and killed by the sword. That vow was a *sacramentum*, a word that also meant a soldier's oath of allegiance and the sum two litigants put on deposit, forfeited by the loser to the gods. Around AD 200 the Christian writer Tertullian took the word for baptism. This is where "sacrament" comes from: a pledge you cannot take back.

The Guildhall that rose here, perhaps unconsciously on the memory of the arena (an inference, not a proof), is the seat of the City's own government. Its Great Hall dates from 1411 to 1440 and has heard the trials of Lady Jane Grey, Archbishop Cranmer and the Jesuit Henry Garnet. Two nine-foot giants, Gog and Magog, look down from the gallery. In the legend they were defeated, chained and set as porters at the gate of Brutus of Troy's palace, a medieval fiction, but a revealing one: London chose *bound enemies* as its guardians. Each November the new Lord Mayor takes office here in the Silent Ceremony and, the next day, rides in the Lord Mayor's Show to the Royal Courts of Justice to swear allegiance to the Crown. That oath is sworn just outside the City's boundary, and this year the Show falls on Saturday 14 November.

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The Blood Oath Under London S Guildhall

*Holographic Sensory Cue:* *You take the stairs down beneath the gallery. The air cools and dries; the light drops to a bluish dark in which green laser lines sketch the ghostly tiers of a crowd that is not there. Under a pane of glass in the floor, planks of Roman timber lie black and glistening after nearly two thousand years. A strip of pale sand marks where the arena floor once was. Somewhere in the ventilation is a low hum, and for a moment it is easy to hear it as the sound of six thousand people drawing breath before an oath is heard.*

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/2026/11/1-2.jpg)

## Second Story: Smithfield and the Vow That Built a Hospital

Rahere was a courtier of Henry I, and according to the later Latin *Book of the Foundation* a jester, who set out for Rome as a pilgrim, unsettled by the death of the king's heir. He fell ill on Tiber Island, vowed a hospital if he lived, and dreamed that a monster held him over a black pit until St Bartholomew came to lift him out. On 25 March 1123 he laid the foundation stone of a priory and hospital on the "smooth field" of Smithfield, outside the wall, where the king's horse-market, the gallows and the elms shared the same grass. The hospital is still there.

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London S Field Of Blood And Mercy

It would be a comfort to end with mercy. But the same ground is where William Wallace was hanged, drawn and quartered in 1305, where Wat Tyler was cut down in front of a fourteen-year-old king in 1381, and where Lollards and Protestants were burned, among them Anne Askew in 1546 and dozens more under Mary I. Standing in the Norman apse of St Bartholomew-the-Great, you can feel the ground still holding three ledgers at once: the fair, the fire and the hospital.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/2026/11/2-2.jpg)

## Third Story: London's Jerusalem

Walk west, out of the ancient wall line and into the Temple, and the Templars are waiting. In 1185 Heraclius, the Patriarch of Jerusalem, consecrated a round church here, modelled on the rotunda over Christ's tomb, partly for pilgrims who would never make the journey. Inside its circle, dark Purbeck marble columns hold the dusk, and a ring of stone knights lies at your feet, among them William Marshal, who negotiated for King John in the run-up to Magna Carta and later saved the Charter for a child king.

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The Lethal Sightline Of London S Templar Fortress

The Templars were monks, soldiers and, quietly, bankers: the Temple held royal treasure and the Master sat in Parliament as first baron. That power was also their doom. When Philip IV of France, deeply in debt to them, had the Order broken up in 1307, the Temple passed to the Hospitallers, then to the Crown, and in 1608 to the lawyers who still keep it. In the stair, a cell too small to lie down in recalls Walter le Bacheler, a preceptor said to have been starved there for disobedience, a story we know from testimony given to papal inquisitors. Ignore the *Da Vinci Code* talk of sun-worship and Pantheon-copies; the round is a Holy Sepulchre, and what it commemorates is an oath.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/2026/11/3-2.jpg)

## Fourth Story: The Oath That Was Refused

In April 1534 two men were asked to swear an oath and refused. Thomas More and John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, were willing to accept the succession as Parliament's business, but the oath also renounced the Pope's authority and assumed the annulment of Henry VIII's marriage to Catherine of Aragon. Both were sent to the Tower. Fisher was beheaded on Tower Hill on 22 June 1535, More on 6 July. More is reported to have said that he died the king's good servant, but God's first. Fisher's body was buried in the churchyard of All Hallows by the Tower and, in the Catholic Truth Society's account, was moved within weeks to lie beside More in the Tower chapel, apparently so that no grave would become a saint's shrine. Pius XI canonised both men in 1935, and More was named patron of statesmen and politicians in 2000\. A martyr, in the Greek root of the word, is a *witness*; theirs was a witness of refusal, the exact opposite of the vow-makers elsewhere in this walk.

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The King S Secret Grave Robbery

All Hallows says it is the oldest church in the City. Tradition has it founded in AD 675 by Erkenwald, Bishop of London, as a chapel of Barking Abbey, where his sister Ethelburga was abbess (recent research questions that date). A Saxon arch still stands above a second-century Roman pavement in the undercroft, and after the Blitz only the tower and walls remained; the Queen Mother laid the foundation stone of the rebuilding in 1948\. It also received the body of Archbishop Laud in 1645\. What you feel here is a shrine that was *denied*: the saints are honoured elsewhere, but the ground remembers the act that tried to prevent a pilgrimage.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/2026/11/4-2.jpg)

## Fifth Story: The Gates of Heaven in a Banker's Courtyard

Edward I expelled England's Jews in 1290\. In 1656 an accident of war with Spain and the petitioning of Menasseh ben Israel opened a door, and the Sephardic families came back, refugees from the Iberian Inquisition by way of Amsterdam. In 1701 they completed Bevis Marks, whose Hebrew name means the "Gate of Heaven". The builder was a Quaker, Joseph Avis, said (unprovably) to have refused any profit on a house of God. 

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The Hidden Sanctuary That Defied The Blitz

Seven brass candelabra hang in the hall for the seven days of creation; the ark stands on the east wall towards Jerusalem, which from London actually lies about 114 degrees, east-south-east, so "east" is a devotion rather than a survey. It has held regular services for over three hundred years, survived the Blitz and two IRA bombs, and today stands in a courtyard fighting for daylight against proposed towers. The synagogue marks its 325th birthday on 30 September 2026.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/f6/5d/f65d15e6-b5c3-4e06-9142-bd894389f4bd/content/images/2026/11/5-2.jpg)

The Hidden Sanctuary That Defied The Blitz

## The High-Dimensional Lens: The Cosmology of the Sacramentum

The City has no single native cosmology. It has a stack of them, and each is best read in its own vocabulary.

In the **Roman civic-religious register**, *sacramentum* is the thing put in pledge: the gladiator deposits his body, the litigant his money, the soldier his loyalty, and the arena is a place where religion and civic ritual meet. In the **Latin-Christian register**, Smithfield is a foundation by vow, a descent and return; Temple Church is a pilgrimage substitution, a Jerusalem you can reach on foot from Fleet Street; and All Hallows reads as martyrial geography, where a witness is a refused oath and a shrine is prevented by moving bones. In the **Sephardic register**, Bevis Marks is a covenant house whose orientation, lights and columns turn a courtyard into the antechamber of Jerusalem. Guildhall's giants belong to a fourth, **legendary register**: captured, chained guardians, which we read as myth, not history.

Read together, they describe a geometry that is not about height or consecration but about collateral. In the Square Mile the sacred is what you cannot get back if you break your word, and the ground records refusals as faithfully as vows.

## Resonance Nodes

***Resonance Node: The Peace Tent, St Ethelburga's.*** Behind an unassuming door on Bishopsgate, a Bedouin tent stands in a garden. St Ethelburga, Erkenwald's sister, gave this church its name, so it belongs to the same seventh-century family as All Hallows. In April 1993 an IRA truck-bomb devastated the street and about seventy per cent of the tiny medieval church, which was uninsured. The insurance payouts for the surrounding damage nearly brought down Lloyd's. It was rebuilt as a centre for reconciliation and peace, and the tent celebrates its twentieth birthday this year.

***Resonance Node: The Quit Rents.*** Each autumn the City pays the Crown a blunt blade, a sharp blade, six horseshoes and sixty-one nails for two properties nobody can find. The ceremony, at the Royal Courts of Justice just outside the City, dates back to the early thirteenth century, and one of its rents is tied to a farrier who shod horses beside the Templars.

## The Philosophical Anchor

Every catastrophe on this ground is a breach or refusal of a promise, and every act of grace is a promise kept. That is the hidden frequency of the City of London, one that historians tend to miss because they file its stories under empire, church and commerce. Look instead at the pattern: a gladiator's sworn body, a vow paid as a hospital, an order of oath-bound monks destroyed by a debtor-king, an oath refused at the price of a head, a covenant house of exiles, a rent nobody can locate, and the Stock Exchange motto, *Dictum Meum Pactum*: my word is my bond. The Square Mile is the ground of the sacramentum.

It is a demanding kind of holiness, and perhaps the one we can least afford to forget. Memory of what we pledged, and to whom, is among the few things that keep a civilisation from dissolving; no machine can promise on our behalf. If you would like to receive our next historical walk, add your email below.

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## Accessing the Physical Node

**Getting there.** Bank, St Paul's and Moorgate put you within a few minutes' walk of Guildhall; Temple and Blackfriars serve Temple Church; Barbican and Farringdon reach Smithfield (the new London Museum at Smithfield opens on 28 November 2026); Tower Hill and Tower Gateway are beside All Hallows; Aldgate and Liverpool Street serve Bevis Marks and St Ethelburga's.

**Hours worth checking.** Guildhall Art Gallery and the Roman Amphitheatre are free and usually open daily from 10am to 5pm (last entry 4.45pm). Temple Church normally opens weekday daytimes for a small fee and closes for events. All Hallows is usually open in daylight hours. Bevis Marks welcomes visitors to Friday-evening and Saturday-morning services; check the community's site about the new heritage centre. If you can, come on Saturday 14 November for the Lord Mayor's Show.

**Where to stay.** For the City on foot, look at hotels near Tower Hill, Aldgate, Liverpool Street and Bank: they are quiet at weekends, when the Square Mile belongs to the history.

### 🇺🇸 US Reader Resources

Recommended for US travelers: **Expedia**, **Booking.com**, and **Viator**.

### 🇬🇧 UK Reader Essentials

Ad: Trusted for UK travelers: **Tripadvisor**, **GetYourGuide**, and **Saily**.

### 🗺️ Prepara tu viaje

Plataformas recomendadas: **Civitatis**, **Booking.com** y **Holafly**.

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【PR】おすすめのツール：**Klook**, **Booking.com**, **Ubigi**.

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推介使用：**Klook**, **Agoda** 和 **Airalo**。

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【揭露】在地首選：**KKday**, **Agoda** 和 **Ubigi**。

### 🗺️ Travel Essentials

I use **Booking.com** and **GetYourGuide** for my global adventures.

**Guided walks.** A Blue Badge guide who specialises in the City can thread these five sites in a single day. Ask for a route that begins in Guildhall Yard and ends at Tower Hill at dusk.

---

## 💡 Q&A

### 本文核心歷史地緣實體與考據 Q&A

**Q1 | What is the historical origin of the Roman amphitheatre beneath Guildhall in the City of London, and how does the oath of the sacramentum connect to the modern word sacrament?**

A：Around AD 70, the Romans constructed an amphitheatre in the northwest of Londinium that could hold thousands of spectators. According to literary records from authors like Petronius and Seneca, gladiators swore an oath—known as a *sacramentum*—to endure being burned, bound, beaten, and killed by the sword. This term originally denoted a soldier's oath of allegiance and a legal deposit. Around AD 200, the Christian writer Tertullian adopted the word to signify Christian baptism, establishing the historical root for the modern religious concept of the sacrament. Today, the dark stone arc in Guildhall Yard marks the footprint of this ancient arena.

  
**Q2 | How was St Bartholomew's Hospital in Smithfield founded, and what is the relationship between the medieval vow recorded in the Book of the Foundation and historical reality?**

A：According to the medieval Latin text the *Book of the Foundation*, King Henry I's courtier Rahere fell ill on Tiber Island during a pilgrimage to Rome and vowed to build a hospital if he recovered. Having dreamt that St Bartholomew rescued him, Rahere returned to London and established the priory and hospital at Smithfield in 1123\. While the visionary and miraculous elements reflect medieval religious traditions and personal devotion, Smithfield's establishment transformed an open marshland into a lasting institutional space for public healthcare and civic commerce.

  
**Q3 | Why does London's Temple Church feature a distinct round nave, and what was its historical connection to the Knights Templar and medieval vow-making?**

A：Built in the 12th century by the Knights Templar, Temple Church features a signature round nave designed specifically to emulate the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The Knights Templar were an elite military religious order bound by strict monastic vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience. This architectural choice reflected the crusaders' cosmological framework and linked the City of London directly to the sacred geography of the Holy Land, embedding medieval military-religious pledges into the heart of the capital's legal and financial district.  

---

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---

#### 📖Reference and Further reading📖

****First layer – Main sources of literature and institutions:**

- Historic England scheduled monument 1013411 (Roman amphitheatre, Guildhall Yard);
- City of London Corporation visitor and civic-calendar pages;
- Lord Mayor's Show site (history; Gog and Magog).
- Ｇreatstbarts.com history;
- Barts Health/hospital archives;
- London Museum.
- Temple Church (templechurch.com);
- Historic England NHLE 1064646;
- Inner/Middle Temple archives.
- All Hallows by the Tower (ahbtt.org.uk, history and education);
- Historic England listing;
- Vatican State "Saint of the day" (22 June) for canonisation;
- Church of England calendar (More, 1980).
- S&P Sephardi Community (sephardi.org.uk);
- Jewish Museum London online collections;
- Historic England (Grade I);
- City of London planning committee papers (Bury Street, 2021–25).

****The second layer – secondary academic materials:**

- Nick Bateman, Carrie Cowan & Robin Wroe-Brown, **London's Roman Amphitheatre: Excavations at the Guildhall* (MOLA Monograph);
- London Museum, "The Roman amphitheatre in central London";
- Petronius, **Satyricon* 117; Seneca, **Epistulae* 37;
- A. D. Nock (1952) on Roman military oaths;
- Tertullian on **sacramentum* and baptism.
- Julian Luxford, "St Bartholomew's Priory, West Smithfield: the tomb of Rahere and the Book of the Foundation", **JBAA* 178 (2025);
- Judith Etherton, "Rahere", **ODNB* (2004).
- Charles G. Addison, **The History of the Knights Templars, the Temple Church, and the Temple* (1842) (19th c.; source of inquisition testimony summary);
- **Old and New London* (British History Online).
- Catholic Truth Society, "Who were Sts John Fisher and Thomas More?";
- Standard More/Fisher biographies;
- **History of London* site on All Hallows.
- Apollo Magazine (2021) on Bevis Marks architecture;
- Pepys Diary encyclopedia;
- Works on Anglo-Jewish readmission.

****Third layer – Supplementary information:**

- Geoffrey of Monmouth;
- Settle (1728);
- Popular guides.
- John Foxe, **Actes and Monuments* (1563) — ****partisan Protestant martyrology**;
- Popular ghost lore of the Elms.
- Popular accounts of initiation rites;
- Da Vinci Code material (fiction).
- Popular guides and antiquarian claims about the 675 foundation and about who was buried first where.
- Avis-profit story;
- Beam stories.

****The fourth layer: Historical Void**

- construction date (AD 70 vs 74), capacity (5,000–7,000), the **content* of the lead curses, evidence for actual gladiator fights, the Guildhall–arena continuity, Lord Mayor's oath origin (1189 vs 1215), sculptor's name (Evans/Elms), Silent Ceremony 2026 date. **Further archival verification recommended.*
- exact number burned; Rahere's identity (cleric/courtier/jester) is layered; the Protestant Alliance memorial narrative is polemical. **Further archival verification recommended.*
- Count and identification of effigies;
- Bacheler's date; secret-initiation details rest on hostile inquisition testimony.
- ****Candlemas 1185** claim in some sources conflicts with 10 Feb. **Further archival verification recommended.*
- Date/status of the Saxon foundation;
- More's burial sequence;
- Laud's reburial details.
- Result of the 2026 inquiry;
- Status of the visitor centre.

### 

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