Meguro-ku 目黑區

The place is called Hibusuma. The southern district of Meguro Ward, a few train stops from Shibuya. It doesn’t appear on any map in its original form. It no longer exists as an administrative entity.

The name Meguro means “Black Eye.” That eye belongs to Fudō Myōō — the Immovable One — whose blue-black gaze has watched over Tokyo from this hillside for more than a thousand years. This is the story of the city’s most consequential sacred geography, and why it still hasn’t moved.